The Hong Kong-Singapore travel bubble may have burst for now, which means we’ll have to enjoy HK food locally till borders reopen. Meanwhile, there’s a new mod cha chaan teng in town to check out. Called Pi Food, it soft launched on June 28 this year at the newly-revamped 9 Penang Road (formerly known as Park Mall).

The eatery serves an extensive menu with Canto-Western grub, such as congee, noodles and baked rice, like what one might find at a traditional Hong Kong teahouse. But the establishment is more full-fledged restaurant than charmingly chaotic teahouse, as you can’t find the usual cha chaan teng snacks like polo buns, egg tarts and other pastries here (though they do offer French toast and sandwiches).

According to a press release, the cha chaan teng’s name is derived from the mathematical term pi, as it represents “infinite extensibility”. Cheem. We suppose it refers to the massive menu selections here, split into a daytime menu with more casual dishes, and a fancier dinner spread with Hong Kong-style roast meats and sharing plates like Typhoon Eggplant ($13.80), named for its origins as a dish popularised in HK’s typhoon shelters.

Prices here are kept wallet-friendly, with most dishes priced at $4.80 to around $15 (roast meats start from $14.80 for a single serving of Roasted Duck).

The eatery is helmed by Hong Kong-born head chef Tsang Tak Ching, who spent seven years as a sous chef at Lei Garden in Hong Kong before relocating to Singapore to work at Pi Food (the famed Cantonese restaurant chain, which has one outlet in Singapore at CHIJMES, was founded in HK circa 1973).

Pi is opened by two Hong Kongers (who prefer to remain anonymous for this story) wanting to offer “authentic cha chaan teng food” to the local crowd here. The first-time restaurateurs will also soon open two other new concepts: a local outpost for Ganko, a Japanese washoku (rice and side dishes) restaurant chain with 99 outlets in its native Japan, and a new-to-market unagi specialist eatery called Xi Man.

The 150-seater looks like a sleek mod Chinese restaurant with neon accents. Overhead, a model locomotive continuously makes its rounds on a track that doubles up as a lighting fixture. Al fresco or bar seating options are also available – the restaurant also serves alcohol along with its dinner menu (which starts at 6pm daily).

Expect a range of classic HK dishes like Beef Brisket Noodles ($12.80), Stir Fried Beef Noodles ($13.80) and HK Style Baked Rice With Pork Chop, Tomato Sauce And Cheese ($16.80).

The HK-style roast meat selection includes Roasted Duck ($14.80), Iberico Pork Char Siew ($13.80) and Crispy Pork Belly ($13.80). Other meats include Soya Sauce Chicken ($13.80) and Steamed Gui Fei Chicken ($13.80). A selection of zi-char style plates, like Sweet And Sour Pork ($15.80) or Stir Fried Black Bean Pork Belly with Chilli ($15.80), is also available for sharing. For lighter fare, there’s also steamed rice with toppings like Salted Fish with Minced Meat ($10.80) or silky-smooth Cantonese-style Hand Sliced Beef Congee ($9.80).

Although there are no pastries here (you can hit up MasterChef winner Genevieve Lee’s excellent Sourbombe Bakery in the same building for sourdough doughnuts after your meal), you can order cha chaan teng-style beverages such as HK Style Milk Tea ($3.80 for hot; $4.80 for iced), which uses the same Black & White brand evaporated milk as the traditional HK teahouses, as well as HK Style Coffee ($3.80 for hot; $4.80 for cold) and HK Style Yuan Yang ($3.80 for hot; $4.80 for cold).

Pi Food is at #01-18 9 Penang Road, S238459. Tel: 8923-0632. Open daily 11am – 10pm. Delivery via Grabfood.