France’s Mirazur Crowned World’s Best Restaurant 2019, Noma #2 And Bangkok’s Gaggan #4
Alas, no history in the making for an Asian eatery topping the list.
In somewhat of an upset win at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants award tonight, held for the first time in Singapore, at Marina Bay Sands, France’s Mirazur from Menton was named #1 on the list. It beat four-time #1 winner and hot fave Noma from Copenhagen, which reopened as Noma 2.0 last year after its closure in 2017. Instead, the latter took the #2 spot. Third on the list is Asador Etxebarri, from Axpe, Spain, which crept up considerably from tenth place last year.
Argentine-born, France-based chef Mauro Colagreco tearily exclaimed in halting English: “No words can describe this feeling. I am waiting to fall from the sky [back to earth]”. Interestingly, he adds, “It’s the first time a French restaurant has won #1 on the list”. He’s right — past winners were from Italy (Osteria Francescana), Spain (El Celler De Can Roca, El Bulli), England (The Fat Duck) and America (The French Laundry, Eleven Madison Park) and Denmark (Noma). The 50 Best Restaurants official website describes Mirazur as having a “panoramic view overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, in an idyllic palm tree-studded cove perched upon a hillside mere steps from the Italian border, provides reason enough to drive an hour from Nice.
Photo: Mauro Colagreco - Restaurant Mirazur, Facebook
Here, chef Mauro Colagreco (pictured with his wife who also works at his restaurant) assembles modern, delicately flavoured dishes imbued with the essence of the Côte d'Azur via local French and Italian ingredients.” The eatery also boasts three Michelin stars. Well, the restaurant is 13 years old, and chef seems like a sweet, humble kinda guy who's well-liked by his peers.
Photo: Alvin Teo
Taking the second spot on the World’s Best Restaurants list is the beloved Copenhagen restaurant Noma.
Chef René Redzepi closed the first Noma in 2016 and re-opened it in 2018 in a new location as Noma 2.0 with a refreshed menu that mimics the seasons. His iconic modern Scandinavian restaurant was a favourite to take the top spot in 2019’s competition since the first iteration of Noma was a four-time winner of the #1 spot. Is that why Chef René is absent at the ceremony in Singapore (he says he’s busy launching a new menu)? Instead, he sent a restaurant rep over to accept the award on his behalf.
Photo: @nomacph, Facebook
There were whispers in the industry that “progressive” Indian fine-diner Gaggan in Bangkok, owned by the gregarious chef Gaggan Anand might be crowned World’s Best Restaurant tonight. The restaurant was #1 for four consecutive years on the Asian iteration of the list, but fell to #2 in 2018 (Singapore’s Odette displaced it). It placed #5 on the international list last year. Alas, it was not to be. It climbed one spot to #4 this year, its last chance to participate in the list. Because...
Photo: Alvin Teo
Chef Anand created shockwaves in 2016 when he announced his decision to close Gaggan in 2020, on the tenth year of its anniversary. Why shut down a super successful restaurant? “I hate to be predictable, so I need to take this break,” Anand told Eater. Instead, he’ll be opening a new restaurant in Fukuoka, Japan, called GohGan in 2021 with Japanese chef Takeshi Fukuyama of La Maison de la Nature Goh (pictured).
Photo: The World's 50 Best
Meanwhile, representing Singapore is Julien Royer’s contemporary French fine-diner Odette. It’s #18, ten places up from #28 last year (and current #1 on the Asian edition of the list). “I don’t hope for anything. The higher the number [Odette is] the better of course, but I’m just happy to be here,” said Julien when we spoke to him just before the results were announced. 'Grats, chef.
In a controversial new ruling this year, no chefs whose restaurants have previously taken the top spot on the list are allowed to enter the list. Instead, they’ll be moved to a collection called ‘The Best of the Best’. So that meant 2018’s #1, Osteria Francescana in Italy (by chef Massimo Bottura, pictured), as well as six other top restaurants like two-time #1 winner El Celler de Can Roca from Spain and one-time winner The Fat Duck were out of the running. A rather odd decision, despite the 50 Best committee saying that this change was implemented so other contestants too can have a chance at winning.
After all, the voting system itself, made up of a team of jurors comprising chefs and journalists, is controversial — voters do not have quotas when it comes to those who they vote for, nor are they required to pay for their own meals (meaning they can be hosted by more ambitious restaurants with deep pockets).
But that's another story. Here’re the top 50 restaurants this year.
1. Mirazur (Menton, France)
Last year's rank: #3
2. Noma (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Last year's rank: Nil
3. Asador Etxebarri (Atxondo, Spain)
Last year's rank: #10
4. Gaggan (Bangkok, Thailand)
Last year's rank: #5
5. Geranium (Copenhagen, Denmark)
Last year's rank: #19
6. Central (Lima, Peru)
7. Mugaritz (San Sebastian, Spain)
8. Arpège (Paris, France)
9. Disfrutar (Barcelona, Spain)
10. Maido (Lima, Peru)
11. Den (Tokyo, Japan)
12. Pujol (Mexico City, Mexico)
13. White Rabbit (Moscow, Russia)
14. Azurmendi (Larrabetzu, Spain)
15. Septime (Paris, France)
16. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (Paris, France)
17. Steirereck (Vienna, Austria)
18. Odette (Singapore)
19. Twins Garden (Moscow, Russia)
20. Tickets (Barcelon, Spain)
21. Frantzén (Stockholm, Sweden)
22. Narisawa (Tokyo, Japan)
23. Cosme (New York, USA)
24. Quintonil (Mexico City, Mexico)
25. Alléno Paris Au Pavillon Ledoyen (Paris, France)
26. Boragó (Santiago, Chile)
27. The Clove Club (London, UK)
28. Blue Hill At Stone Barns (USA)
29. Piazza Duomo (Alba, Italy)
30. Elkano (Getaria, Spain)
31. Le Calandre (Rubano, Italy)
32. Nerua (Bilbao, Spain)
33. Lyle’s (London, UK)
34. Don Julio (Bueno Aires, Argentina)
35. Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, USA)
36. Le Bernardin (New York, USA)
37. Alinea (Chicago, USA)
38. Hiša Franko (Kobarid, Slovenia)
39. A Casa do Porco (São Paulo, Brazil)
40. Restaurant Tim Raue (Berlin, Germany)
41. The Chairman (Hong Kong, China)
42. Belcanto (Lisbon, Portugal)
43. Hof van Cleve (Kruishoutem, Belgium)
44. The Test Kitchen (Cape Town, South Africa)
45. Sühring (Bangkok, Thailand)
46. De Librije (Zwolle, Netherlands)
47. Benu (San Francisco, USA)
48. Ultraviolet By Paul Pairet (Shanghai, China)
49. Leo (Bogotá, Colombia)
50. Schloss Schauenstein (Fürstenau, Switzerland)
51. REALE, Italy (above)
52. MIKLA, Turkey
53. ARZAK, Spain
54. D.O.M., Brazil
55. MAEEMO, Norway
56. RELAE, Denmark
57. NOBELHART & SCHMUTZIG, Germany
58. SUD 777, Mexico
Photo: Barbara Santoro for Niko Romito
59. BURNT ENDS, Singapore (#61 in 2018)
60. INDIAN ACCENT, India
61. ULIASSI, Italy
62. NIHONRYORI RYUGIN, Japan
63. FLORILÈGE, Japan
64. THE LEDBURY, UK
65. SELFIE, Russia
66. CORE BY CLARE SMYTH, UK
67. ASTRID Y GASTÓN, Peru
68. FÄVIKEN, Sweden
69. NAHM, Thailand
70. SAISON, USA
71. SINGLETHREAD, USA
72. AQUA, Germany
73. MANÍ, Brazil
74. LASAI, Brazil
75. DIVERXO, Spain
76. MOMOFUKU KO, USA
77. CHEF’S TABLE AT BROOKLYN FARE, USA
78. LIDO 84, Italy
79. MINGLES, Korea
80. ESTELA, USA
81. QUIQUE DACOSTA, Spain
82. ENIGMA, Spain
83. DINNER BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL, UK
84. ATTICA, Australia
85. AMASS, Denmark
86. TEGUI, Argentina
87. MARTIN BERASATEGUI, Spain
88. LUNG KING HEEN, China
89. 108, Denmark
90. ALO, Canada
91. SUSHI SAITO, Japan
92. HARVEST, Russia
93. LA CIME, Japan
94. APONIENTE, Spain
95. GAA, Thailand
96. BELON, China
97. VENDÔME, Germany
98. ANNE-SOPHIE PIC, France
99. THE JANE, Belgium
100. OTEQUE, Brazil
101. BRAE, Australia
102. AMBER, China
103. JADE DRAGON, China
104. COCOCO, Russia
105. KADEAU, Denmark
106. RESTAURANT DAVID TOUTAIN, France
107. IL RISTORANTE LUCA FANTIN, Japan
108. L’ASTRANCE, France
109. ALCALDE, Mexico
110. NEOLOKAL, Turkey
111. CHAMBRE SÉPARÉE, Belgium
112. ST JOHN, UK
113. VEA, China
114. LA COLOMBE, South Africa
115. PER SE, USA
116. ST. HUBERTUS, Italy
117. EPICURE, France
118. ERNST, Germany
119. ATOMIX, USA
120. SUGALABO, Japan
Photos: Alvin Teo, Burnt Ends