We Went On A Tour Of The Last Kampong In Singapore & This Is What We Learnt
This is nostalgia central.
Your passport may be collecting dust, but it doesn’t mean that there aren’t opportunities for you to go on a holiday, or should we say, a Singapoliday. Staycations, sea-cations or even a daycation in Singapore, anyone? And now, you can even travel… back in time to the last remaining kampong in Singapore.
Local tour company Let’s Go Tour Singapore has just launched a tour of Kampong Buangkok, one of Singapore’s best-kept secrets. In two hours, you’ll get to witness something that you’ve probably only heard about from your parents, grandparents or social studies textbook.
On the tour, you’ll learn about life from the residents of the kampong (no, they’re not all old), discover the history of kampongs, and even get to visit the house of the ‘village chief’.
Groups for the Kampong Experience private tours are kept small (for obvious reasons). Prices start from $200 for a group of up to three people. The kampong tour is among a series of Let’s Go Tour Singapore’s newly-launched 10 tours specially developed for locals.
This is what it’s like to travel back in time to the last surviving kampong in Singapore:
Blink and you’ll miss the kampong that’s nestled just off Yio Chu Kang road. Flanked by a park connector and BTO flats, the kampong is hidden in plain sight in modern Singapore. But as you meander through a winding road that leads to the village, the sounds of traffic are quickly replaced by roosters crowing and birds chirping. Yes, you’ve arrived at Kampong Buangkok, where time seems to have stood still since the 1960s.
That is, until you see signs reminding you that the village is private property… and to keep your mask on.
It’s a unique sight to behold — a quaint village that looks like it’s stuck in time, perched next to sky-high BTO flats, which were built in 2015.
While you can come here on your own to take a stroll in the common areas of the kampong, you won’t be able to enter any of the houses, even for a quick Instagram shot. Yes, it has actually happened before, we’re told. And yes, that counts as trespassing.
It’s largely different when you’re on a guided tour. Besides regaling us about history of kampongs in Singapore, our guide has included a visit the village towkay's house — with permission, of course.
The 1.22ha land belongs to Mdm Sng Mui Hong (above). The 68-year-old landlord inherited the plot of land from her father who bought it in 1956 and began building houses here. It started with four houses, and later grew to 40. Today, 25 houses and one prayer house remain, and families who live here pay Mdm Sng a monthly rent of — wait for it — $6 to $30. Nope, the prices haven't changed since the 1970s.
Though she vehemently shies away from referring to herself as the village head (she prefers to just be known as a friend to the kampong residents), Mdm Sng is the one who keeps the peace, brings up any municipal issues to the authorities and ensures everything here runs smoothly.
The itinerary is designed to be family-friendly and takes inspiration from social studies textbooks. But nothing beats being here and talking to the residents themselves, which you’ll get to do on the tour.
Among them is Mr Nassim (above), a 52-year-old owner of an eatery who still lives in a single-storey house here with his wife and three kids. He’s lived here since he was seven, so you know he’s got plenty of tales about the kampong and of the kampong spirit to tell.
Just as fascinating is Mr Nassim’s backyard, which has been growing produce for decades (curry leaves, betel nuts, and even banana trees). You'll learn about the flora and fauna, and he may even let you try to climb a coconut tree, just like he did in his childhood.
The second half of the tour takes you indoors, and inside one of Mdm Sng’s houses (above). This is where she lives and where she receives guests — the neighbouring house is also hers, but other family members live there. The interior of the house remains as it was since the 70s, with a few added upgrades since (the flushing system was built here about 20 years ago, and now, there's also wi-fi in the kampong). But the look and feel of it is still very much retro, as you’ll realise as you walk around the common areas of her humble abode (the bedroom is out of bounds).
But to help you fully immerse in kampong life, there's a sesh of old-school games, such as five stones and marbles, to round off the tour. You’ll even get to make your own zero point rope out of rubber bands and play a few rounds, something that the kids in our group seemed to relish. Parents, if you're looking to reduce your kids' screentime, this could be it.
More info about Let’s Go Tour Singapore’s Kampong Experience at https://www.letsgotoursingapore.com/
Photos: Jasmine Teo