The words “chicken wings” bring to mind very different things for different people. You could probably start a heated debate about which stall makes the best hawker-style barbecued wings or which uses the most artisanal methods. From KFC to Korean fried chicken to spicy buffalo wings (the kind that lands unsuspecting journalists in the A&E), the versatility of the chicken wing is such that almost everyone can find their favourite variety.

What’s not to like? The drumlet is meaty, the mid-joint is tender and juicy, and fans enjoy sucking pure flavour off skin and bones at the tip. You can steam it; debone, stuff and bake it; batter and deep-fry it; or even stew it.

“The appeal probably lies in the fact that it is an extremely versatile and meaty cut. Generally, cuts near the bone do not dry out as easily so chicken wings tend to remain tender and juicy,” said a spokesperson for Harry’s. The bar and dining chain goes through more than two tonnes of wings each month. Marinated in fresh-cut chilli and a blend of spices, these bar bites are designed to complement beers, but clearly are highlights in their own right.

“When cooked right for the optimal time, you will also get that slightly gelatinous layer under the skin that melts in the mouth,” she added.

And the chicken wing is not too plebeian for the refined palate. Julien Royer, the award-winning chef who helms the soon-to-open Odette at National Gallery Singapore, counts deep-fried chicken wings as his guilty pleasure, specifically, the har cheong gai (prawn paste wings) from No 5 Emerald Hill.

“It is tender, crispy, juicy and has an addictive flavour, which I didn’t realise was dehydrated shrimp paste — which I normally hate,” enthused the chef, who also fondly remembers summer barbecues in France involving chicken wings marinated in yogurt, coriander, cumin, espellete pepper, salt, pepper, garlic, fresh thyme and olive oil, and cooked over a charcoal barbecue.

DELECTABLY DIVERSE

The myriad styles of chicken wings are also unique to different culinary cultures. For Singapore’s cosmopolitan food landscape, that means plenty of options. At Kuishin Bo, for example, executive chef Masuyuki Sogabe serves up freshly-grilled chicken wings glazed with a Japanese chilli-yuzu paste — a Kyushu specialty — for its Kyushu and Okinawa Thematic Food Fair, which runs until Sept 7.

It is also impossible to miss the many chimaek (Korean-style fried chicken and beer) joints that have opened, such as Chir Chir Fusion Chicken Factory, the Korean chain that opened two stores in Singapore in May. To differentiate itself, Chir Chir uses specially-blended, imported sauces for variations such as the hot and saucy roasted-then-fried Spicy BBQ chicken, and its Garlicky Chicken, which is smothered in a sweet soya sauce and sprinkled with minced garlic and fried garlic cloves.

“We use only soya bean oil as we find this brings out the flavour and crispiness of the chicken; precise timing in frying and consistency play a part as well,” explained Chir Chir’s director Tan Chien Fong, stressing that it isn’t only a mastery of technique that is important. “The freshness of the chicken contributes to the taste too, and we also make sure that the wings are of the right size and weight.”

According to Tan, Chir Chir’s fried chicken has been attracting a wide spectrum of diners. “Chicken wings have always been a staple food in the diet of Singaporeans, and that is one of the main reasons that they are widely accepted,” he said.

At Muthu’s Curry, chicken wings come in the form of mid-joints marinated in yogurt, freshly ground spices and oil, and cooked in the tandoori oven to smoky deliciousness. The popular item is not a traditional Indian dish, but was created to appeal to a younger group of diners, revealed the restaurant’s director of marketing, Veshali Visvanaath. “It is a fun, communal food item ... There is something about enjoying every morsel of meat right down to the bone that appeals to many who don’t mind getting their hands dirty.”

TRADITIONAL APPEAL

Chicken wings are also a universal food of choice when it comes to gatherings. “BBQ chicken wing is a dish that you can find in every hawker centre and a staple whenever families and friends get together over hawker fare,” said Moosehead Kitchen-Bar’s proprietor Daniel Ballis. “They are delicious especially with lime and the right chilli sauce, and you can tuck in with your hands — a perfect food for bonding over.”

When the establishment had their Gotong Royong (“spirit of togetherness” in Malay) SG50 dinner early this month, it roped in Teng Wei Yi of Ah Hwee BBQ Chicken Wings as one of the collaborators for the event. Ballis chose Teng because Ah Hwee (started by Teng’s father in 1979) is a well-known heritage name that has maintained tradition through generations.

“Today, they continue to use charcoal, and we really enjoy the crispy skin, the juicy flesh, the delicious marinade, the smokiness from charcoal and the chilli that packs a punch,” said Ballis.

Teng certainly cuts no corners when it comes to preparing the dish that has been his family’s lifeline for 36 years. “The most challenging thing about making good BBQ chicken wings is to make sure you do not compromise on the various steps, no matter how busy you are. From choosing the right quality chicken wing, the marinade recipe, the length of time the wings are marinated ... to ensuring that they are served freshly cooked, rather than heated from pre-cooked wings,” said Teng.

For him, this means using quality produce for the base, marinating the wings for over three hours with a blend of more than 30 ingredients — a recipe that has stayed in the family for over 30 years — and cooking the wings over charcoal, like how his dad does. Teng also makes his own chilli sauce, which requires more than 10 ingredients to concoct.

“(We) follow a strict ‘rotation’ of the skewers to ensure even charring and juicy centres,” he said. “We do not add additional oil, but ensure that the natural fats within the chicken wing are rendered, which enhances the flavours and crispiness of the wings. We also finish cooking the wings only upon order, so that the wings are always hot and juicy.”

Put it like that, it is no wonder we cannot get enough of this popular snack.

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