Singapore — How fitting is it that we tend to find the more authentic proposals of French fare — both in terms of affordability and provenance — housed within similarly inviting heritage proximities. It does underpin the importance of preserving a penchant for the classics. And with 14 successful years evenly divided between Au Petit Salut and Bistro Petit Salut under his belt, local exponent Jason Wong has managed a reputation for serving up just that.

He now heads the latest addition, a cosy 40-seater nestled in the historic confines of the Sultan Hotel in Kampong Glam. Respect for ingredients and traditional cooking techniques remain, although recent outings to the culinary heart of provincial Lyon and Champagne are also reflected in the menu, which is unabashedly teeming with proudly rustic adaptations.

Wong starts by making his own pork and duck rillettes, which are notably not as pasty as ready-made alternatives, and boast a flavourful freshness - it’s not overly fatty, or, for that matter, too heavily seasoned. Another must-have on any French menu, Wong’s foie gras terrine (S$18) is infused with “sweet wine” and enjoys a balanced, creamy quality. It’s served with a simple side of mixed greens, beetroot and fresh figs, and a somewhat unconventional “raisin brioche”.

The brioche is a central part of this platter of simple pleasures, and I have to say that I enjoyed the bread, even if I did find it to be more like an airy, crumbly fruit cake baked with a slightly charred crust. This is currently the only bread he bakes from scratch (for the baguette, frozen dough is flown in and baked to order).

The mains, though, are where Wong’s famously indulgent yet unaffected cuisine shines. He even admits to mooching inspiration and a basic recipe from a lady in Lyon for his moreish offering of frog legs (S$18). Seared to seal, then flipped and braised in a little deglazing white wine, parts were still more tough than tender. But frog is a tough meat to master, and a delightful nugget of melting garlic butter the dish was served with did help us look past the small stuff.

The kitchen also yields a moist oven-baked Chilean black cod (S$38). It was topped with an herbed crust made with bread crumbs seasoned with tarragon, thyme and a little basil, which did just enough to complement the clean and lean flavours of this delicate fish.

All the same, standing out among the highlights was a more down-to-earth proposition; hormone-free chicken roasted with at least 40 cloves of garlic and an abiding bouquet of rosemary, sage and thyme (S$88 for a whole chicken, good for 2 to 3). There was no stringiness and a nice elasticity, which might also provide some proof of poultry that wasn’t frozen. That said, it was Wong’s bordelaise sauce — a runnier but no less robust version — that would hog the limelight. Again, this is a classic sauce, which Wong enhances with chicken jus from the pan drippings and a little bone marrow.

The lonesome selection of just three predictable desserts does include a delicate cheese cake (S$18), apparenly a Ducasse recipe. They were enjoyable, but paled next to chef’s more famously hearty savouries.

Where: 101 Jalan Sultan, The Sultan Hotel

Telephone: 6723 7117

Opening hours:

Mon to Sun: breakfast, 7.30am to 10.30am

Tue to Sun: dinner, 6.30pm to 10.30pm