SINGAPORE — In an ideal world, the only way to eat well is to eat right. A compromise of conscience, no matter how well-seasoned and deftly finished a dish may be, cannot be in good taste, and that can be consequently hard to swallow.

Clearly, it would also be tough to avoid inciting food metaphors and cheesy culinary allusions when deploring the future of contemporary consumption — admittedly less entertaining when the subject of absence is rightfully brought into context (about 870 million people go hungry, according to a new exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History).

So let’s focus on the projected highlights where Singapore’s gastro affections congregate. I’d like to think that our dining scene has, despite the temptation to transgress, quickly and gracefully evolved to reflect a greater affection for conscious dining.

This year in Singapore, more restaurants and hospitality groups have affirmed a stronger commitment to sustainability — beyond taking sharks’ fin and Atlantic blue fin tuna off the menu. For example, Shangri-La Singapore’s new Waterfall Cafe not only flaunts healthy-yet-creative dishes inspired by Mediterranean flavours, but a line-up featuring ingredients sourced from sustainable origins (free from hormones, pesticides and antibiotics). And select supermarkets have a dedicated section for sustainable fresh seafood.

But if you asked me what I’d like to see more of on our island’s carte du jour for 2013, my vote would be for a more focused celebration of provincial cuisine and the support of ecological food sources they might inherently champion. Singapore’s understandable lack of agriculture means that we import nearly everything we consume. But doesn’t that also mean we have the luxury of choice (paid for with a hefty carbon footprint), and with that, the choice and compulsion to eat seasonal? I say, why let a bloated perception of being on top of the food chain spoil a healthy appetite.

Small bites

Speaking of altering perceptions, many of my peers posit that the high-end dining scene here has peaked. That was probably already the case two years ago, with the advent of the integrated resorts and their blinding invitations to dine — from a couple of firsts from the world’s most decorated chef-restaurateur Robuchon at Resorts World Sentosa, to the six celebrity chef restaurants that make up the Marina Bay Sands’ constellation of fine picks. Even the recent arrival of a few elBulli signatures at minted Spanish restaurant Catalunya (courtesy of executive chef Alain Devahive Tolosa and his team, most of whom are former kitchen staff at elBulli) are limited to its tapas menu. Next year will be a true test of quality and resilience for the unprecedented boom of small plates dining destinations to hit the scene big this year.

We might even see more independents joining the ranks of Sabio and Brit star Jason Artherton’s Esquina, as well as more affordable inspirations from the likes of Zsofi, Foodbar Dada, Amuse and two-month-old local setup Lolla. Two-week-old MAD (Modern Asian Diner), a rare partnership between five local success stories, namely The TungLok Group, acclaimed singer-songwriter Dick Lee, Bakerzin, Top Wines, and Bar Stories, will be hawking dim sum by day and inspired tapas by night, but only time will tell if a Fried Rice Paradise-inspired dish (after Lee’s most talked about musical) will claim a spot on the menu. Bomba by the JIA Boutique Hotels group is another new addition to the tapas samba line, but specialises in some stellar paella, which comes in three sharing portions.

Communal hit

Surely, the natural evolution of small plates dining would be big plates dining — communal platters and group-sized portions — but in a more generous and possibly less expensive way. Quite possibly Singapore’s first Cajun boil restaurant, Cajun Kings, is an apt case in point. Its seafood-rich menu is lean, but the invitation to strap on a bib and dive into a plastic bag of freshly-cooked Dungeness and mud crabs, Boston Maine lobsters, Red Sea prawns and Manila clams is a great bonding experience not to be underestimated.

Bibs are also provided at new barbeque restaurant Morganfield’s, which serves the expected medley of grills, not to mention a list of pork ribs done in different ways. The corporate platter for five to share includes half a slab of hickory BBQ sticky bones, half a slab of smoked peppercorn sticky bones, tequila spiked chicken, grilled pork rib eye and an assortment of sausages.

MooJaa, located in Keong Saik Road’s evermore hip enclave, proffers Thai barbecue-steamboat meals and value sets to boot. Specialising in traditional charcoal barbecue Hansang Korean Restaurant’s third and biggest outlet, located at The Grandstand, Turf City (where MAD is also located) could lend further proof of a revival.

Still, I suspect that it’ll likely be the reassuring Italian eats that will turn the tide for communal feasting. To wit, one of the best ways to get your fill of InItaly’s already affordable deals is to order a variety and share, and chef-owner Mario Caramello (former chef patron of Forlino) doesn’t mind that at all. He also recommends the Gran Bollito, good for two to share. This is a traditional celebratory dish of boiled meats served with several condiments, including salsa verde, tomato sauce, grated horseradish and mustard. Over at Chef Carlo Marengoni’s authentic northern Italian home-styled Trattoria Gallo D’Oro, the sacred and not so secret rule is: “Have food, must share”. Don’t be fooled by their affordability, all orders, including those from the a la carte menu, are prepared for sharing and served in the middle of the table. From an oven-baked sea bass to the ubiquitous veal ravioli or braised veal shank, this is Italian dining the family will approve. Of course, if you can’t get enough seafood, sharing platters are also a choice catch at popular haunts like Brittany-inspired bistro Le Petite Cancale; even at the latest waterfront option from The Big Idea group, The Pelican Seafood Bar & Grill at One Fullerton.

Nothing half-baked

Like the natural boom in the demand for artisan coffee here (not surprisingly, a few more have opened shop this year), bakeries have also done expectedly well. These days, however, the yen is for the more rustic, crustier European stuff; batards, country loaves and sourdough. Maison Kayser quickly earned a name for purveying arguably the finest baguette in town. Parisian stalwart Paul made a successful debut in February, followed by a slew including Japanese bakery Donq and Tiong Bahru Bakery by French celebrity baker Gontran Cherrier.

Even Daniel Tay of Bakerzin fame decided to indulge in an old love for baking artisan bread, alongside lesser known advocates like The Bread Project on Joo Chiat Road. Next year, though, might be a good year for more local bakes, should BreadTalk’s latest venture prove to be a hit.

Today (officially), Thye Moh Chan, the traditional Teochew confectionery store with nearly 70 years of heritage, makes a comeback after closing last September by joining the fold of the BreadTalk Group. Signature baked treats like its sweet and salty tau sar piah, and the Teochew Double Delight are also more readily available, now that they can be found at both Chinatown Point and Food Republic at Parkway Parade. To retain the brand essence, Koh Hong Chua, previously the sole proprietor and two veteran chefs remain key consultants in this re-launch.