This round’s on The Secret Mermaid’s Howard Lo
SINGAPORE — In move that at first appears to detour from his vested interest in Japanese fare, American-born restaurateur Howard Lo, the owner of Tanuki Raw and Standing Sushi Bar, has chosen to venture into something more immediately intoxicating, called The Secret Mermaid. But this new venue is a double-bill: It’s a Japanese-influenced salad bar, Shinkansen, by day and transforms into a cosy tasting room come nightfall.
SINGAPORE — In move that at first appears to detour from his vested interest in Japanese fare, American-born restaurateur Howard Lo, the owner of Tanuki Raw and Standing Sushi Bar, has chosen to venture into something more immediately intoxicating, called The Secret Mermaid. But this new venue is a double-bill: It’s a Japanese-influenced salad bar, Shinkansen, by day and transforms into a cosy tasting room come nightfall.
“The idea behind The Secret Mermaid is it’s a place where people can learn about the American craft spirit movement and sample the spirits,” he said. “Our company, Liberty Spirits Asia, is working with 16 American craft distilleries to distribute their products in Asia.”
This is a bold move considering the recent craze more globally renowned spirits and labels have been enjoying. But Lo does have a fair insight to the assorted quality on offer.
“Many of the recent bars focus on mixology and craft cocktails. We’re a tasting room where one can sample American craft spirits, so we will be offering tasting flights and our cocktails harken back to the classic cocktails which tend to have the spirit front and centre,” Lo explained.
“I’ve also lived in a few regions in America so it’s great that I can relate to where these distillers are based and get excited about the areas they’re sourcing their grains from to which bars in which cities are carrying their spirits.
“Most of these distilleries are quite small and we’re the first place in Asia they’ve worked with, so it’s helpful to be able to relate with their background as it builds affinity for the working relationship.”
Q: We’ve heard about unique imports like bacon-flavoured Bakon Vodka, and even a smoked salmon variety. They sound a tad gimmicky for a “tasting room”, no?
A: (Laughs) Yeah, those do sound gimmicky, but they’re actually just two out of the 45-plus spirits we are bringing in. I think they’ve gotten notice already because of how crazy they seem. However, if you look at the smoked salmon vodka it’s coming from Alaska Distillery. It’s actually made with glacier water, locally grown wheat, and salmon caught in the Alaskan waters. There’s a growing interest in savoury drinks, and Bakon Vodka and Smoked Salmon Vodka provide a great base to start for those. While those are getting mentions we are also very excited about our other spirits, which include Berkshire Mountain’s Greylock Gin from Massachusetts (rated the No 1 gin by The New York Times), the range of spirits from the 100 per cent organic Greenbar distillery from Los Angeles, and Brooklyn’s Greenhook American Dry Gin which is really taking off in New York.
Q: Name the three best things about Singapore’s current bar scene.
A: Diversity: From beer at a hawker centre to a casual cocktail at Ah Sam’s Cold Drink Stall to the full-on molecular mixology at Tippling Club, there are drinks with environments to match the mood you’re in. Talent — with the proliferation of cocktail bars over the past eight years, a lot of people have been honing their skills and have helped train lots of the younger bartenders. So that raised the overall skill level of the folk in the industry. Convenience: One of the good things is that in almost any neighbourhood, I can find a place to get a solid drink!
Q: Your preferred poison to end a long work day?
A: Whisky. I would start with an Old Fashioned made with Berkshire Bourbon and follow it with a Catoctin Creek’s 100 per cent rye whiskey neat. Both are made for leisurely sipping and it’s a good way to shake off the hectic work day and ease into the night.
Q: Most memorable food and drink pairing?
A: Dry gin martinis with raw food. Not raw like vegetables but raw seafood and meat — oysters, sashimi, and steak tartar. At Tanuki Raw, I’m pairing this frequently. There’s something wonderful about how raw foods taste pure, simple and clean, which pairs very well with the light botanicals and cold crispness of gin. With sashimi you get very light flavours from the fish, the stronger brine taste from oysters, and then steak tartar gives you a solid, strong taste that is cut very well with the gin. Sometimes I feel like a caveman for making a meal out of raw food.
Q: The drink you reach for when life throws you lemons?
A: A Bloody Mary salted with my tears.
Q: A bar you’d frequent just for the food?
A: 28 Hong Kong Street. Their Mac and Cheese balls and fried chicken with waffles are God’s creation to drinking snacks. I wish they did food deliveries.
Q: Furthest you’ve travelled for a good drink?
A: Portland, Oregon. I went to New Deal Distillery’s tasting room early last year. Fast forward to August and I flew back to Portland to bring bottles of their spirits back to Singapore in my carry-on and also to note down all the great aspects of their tasting room.
Q: What spirit would you posit might be the new single-malt?
A: Single-malt Scotches are wonderful; folks might want to try the new American single malts that are coming into the scene. Aside from single malts I think gin is trending in popularity; just look at the gin collections that Spiffy Dapper and Jekyll & Hyde offer.
Q: With Valentine’s Day kicking of the weekend revelry, what would you say is the drink that best inspires romance?
A: Tequila shots. It’s the only socially accepted drink that lets you lick salt off another person’s body even if you just met them.
The Secret Mermaid (10 Collyer Quay, B1-08/09 Ocean Financial Centre) opens March 3.