Our unchanging tropical climate has never stopped us from feasting on some of the best seasonal foods — not only agriculturally, but also festive seasons such as the perennial Mid-Autumn, or mooncake, festival. It is just the sort of seasonal treat that adapts well, embracing both a creative and sometimes unconventional pairing of flavours, and a nod to local predilections.

The evolution of the snow skin mooncakes speaks volumes: We have seen how alcohol-laced adaptations have not only become the norm, but boast their own trends. Champagne truffle mooncakes, for example, may be a perennial must-have, but so are the various martini alternatives. And then there are the durian mooncakes, which never cease to seduce our palates.

“I’m a bit of a purist and only indulge in the actual fruit, given that it is such a short season,” said Kat Chan, a graphic designer and self-proclaimed durian addict. “But I also enjoy durian confections that use 100 per cent durian pulp.”

It helps when consumers can choose from rare organic options, such as Peony Jade’s Premium Posh Grade A pure Mao Shan Wang durian mooncake in organic pandan snow skin (S$60 for two pieces and S$102 for four pieces; call 6659 4159). Only 500 boxes of this limited-edition offering, which features pesticide-free durian pulp from Pahang, Malaysia, are available.

“This is part of a push to celebrate well-loved Singapore flavours,” said Robert Han, general manager of The Quayside Group, which owns and manages Peony Jade. “Peony Jade decided to do organic Mao Shan Wang due to the increase in demand for quality pesticide-free Mao Shan Wang. Singapore gourmets want only the best and value organic produce as well.”

This might also explain the return of Goodwood Park Hotel’s limited offering of Black Thorn durian snow skin mooncakes (S$54 for two pieces; S$88 for four pieces; call 6730 1867 to pre-order by Sept 21). This is a premium breed of durian that is native to Penang, Malaysia that the hotel debuted in its range last year. It is relatively new, said a spokesperson, who added that the variety was only discovered about two years ago, and is revered for its “creamy, amber-coloured flesh and intense (bitter-sweet) favour”.

DELECTABLY NOSTALGIC

But more mooncake nods to Singapore flavours are also making their debut. Bakerzin, for example, has debuted its Celebration Range (visit http://www.bakerzin.com to order online) of four snow skin mooncakes inspired by favourite local desserts, such as the mung bean and peanut snow skin mooncake that takes inspiration from the ang ku kueh.

“The ‘local dessert’ flavours have always been in our ideas bank,” said Sharon Tay, Bakerzin’s chief operating officer, who added that the brainstorming and research and development phase for any new flavour can take up to a year.

“However, as we approached the nation’s birthday, we decided Mid-Autumn 2015 would be the best year to launch this range,” Tay added. “The gamble paid off and Bakerzin’s Celebration Collection is proving to be very popular with our customers this year.”

All the flavours in this range proved challenging, said Tay. “We do not use artificial flavourings and so we needed to ensure these distinct flavour combinations were well-paired and complemented each other. For instance, the pandan coconut with gula Melaka (inspired by the ondeh ondeh) was challenging as we needed to come up with a way for the gula Melaka centre to stay soft when the snow skin (is served) chilled. It was impossible to make it runny, but it had to be soft enough to be very delicate on the palate.”

The team eventually came up with a gula Melaka “pate de fruit” — a gula Melaka jelly — that had the ideal consistency. “This was coated with desiccated coconut before it was placed in the middle of the snow skin (mooncake),” elaborated Tay.

Response has been so good for these offerings that the team may make them “part of our permanent repertoire”, Tay said, adding that while Bakerzin has already begun preliminary planning for next year’s flavours, it is still “a little early to think about what we may offer next year”.

Meanwhile, Hua Ting’s master-chef Lap Fai wants to bring back old flavours that are distinctly reminiscent of old-world Singapore to commemorate this year’s SG50 Mid-autumn festival. After several rounds experimenting with various childhood desserts, he settled with the comforting combination of sweet red bean and salted green bean, and incorporated popping candies to recreate “those childhood memories and excitement”.

“The last step was to craft the snow skin (with) the Merlion (icon) in national colours,” Lap Fai said. The mooncakes are available from a booth at the Orchard Hotel lobby.

SWEET, SAVOURY, SPICY

Adding to this year’s celebratory inflections is Wan Hao’s SG50-inspired Teh Tarik with Chocolate Pearls snow skin mooncake, which marries one of Singapore’s favourite drinks with the familiar crunch of chocolate pearls, carefully balanced with a mildly sweet lotus paste. But the restaurant also explored more unique touches — with the slightly spicy Jalapeno and Chicken Bak-Kwah with White Lotus Seed Paste baked mooncake. (These are available at Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel, call 6831 4708 to enquire.)

Even feted pastry chef Janice Wong could not resist the opportunity to adapt the mooncake, launching her range of bold local flavours that infuses nine of the nation’s “signature flavours” into some of the most challenging creations the famously-inventive chef has worked on. Limited to only 300 boxes, each nine-piece box set (S$65 each, visit http://janicewong.co/ for details) features mini lotus paste snow skin mooncakes in flavours such as Laksa Leaf Lemongrass, Bah Kwa Praline Poprocks, Gula Melaka Pandan Kaya, Chendol Red Bean, Soya Sauce Ginger and Condense Milk Truffle. There is even a chilli padi infusion for those who prefer their treat with a little kick.

Wong’s pick, though, is the Ginger Flower Rojak. “It is my favourite, yet the most difficult (of the flavours) to balance,” she said. “We infused the white chocolate with ginger flower and added peanuts to the chocolate truffle centre; it’s unique and I also love using finger flower.”

Less of a headache, but up there among her favourites, is the kaffir lime-salted caramel flavour, which she described as having the right balance of citrus notes, salty notes and sweetness, and “already creamy and soft in texture”.

“(The idea) started off with the Singapore signature bonbons, which are a hit. Later, we added four more flavours (when creating) the mooncakes,” said Wong, adding that response to the mooncakes has been very positive.

The chef is currently in Japan to learn more about the art of wagashi and other traditional treats, and where she also hopes to find inspiration to include these Singapore flavours in a more adaptable confectionary. “I’m sure there will be new inspirations!” she mused. “I would definitely explore continuing this next year.”

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