Whisky with your turkey? Why not, say experts
SINGAPORE — The season of eating and drinking to be merry is once again upon us. But if you’re dreading yet another evening of mulled wine and egg nog, fret not. There are other beverages you can imbibe in, you know. To be sure, bubbly works every time. And a ripe and delicious red from the Rhone Valley, or some stunning Gewurztraminer from Pfalz or Alsace would certainly thrill and satisfy (the complex and fragrant characteristics of the latter — flavours of lychee and even pineapple in riper pickings — are amazing with roast meats).
SINGAPORE — The season of eating and drinking to be merry is once again upon us. But if you’re dreading yet another evening of mulled wine and egg nog, fret not. There are other beverages you can imbibe in, you know. To be sure, bubbly works every time. And a ripe and delicious red from the Rhone Valley, or some stunning Gewurztraminer from Pfalz or Alsace would certainly thrill and satisfy (the complex and fragrant characteristics of the latter — flavours of lychee and even pineapple in riper pickings — are amazing with roast meats).
But you can also consider the company of some of your favourite spirits. In fact, experts say these are a welcome alternative — whether you enjoy them neat, on the rocks, softened with a little soda water or in an extravagant cocktail. It helps to remember that distilled beverages made well are elegant tipples on their own, boasting a celebration of flavours and aromatics that complement and elevate many Christmas staples.
COMPLEX BOTANICALS
One such versatile distillation is a good gin. Unlike most spirits, gin is defined by the predominant flavour of juniper. As such, distillers have been taking advantage of the fact that they are free to infuse a variety of botanicals to create a product that stands out. The Raffles 1915, for example, a bespoke gin created for the Raffles Hotel by London artisanal spirit distillers Sipsmith (S$350 a bottle), contains some uniquely familiar notes — jasmine flowers, pomelo peel, lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaf, nutmeg and cardamom. It is a rather nifty blend that also works well with mixes. “The Raffles 1915 Gin is an extremely versatile gin that is perfect for pairing with a wide variety of festive dishes,” said Sipsmith co-founder Sam Galsworthy.
For a pre-dinner drink with nibbles, he recommended The Raffles 1915 French 75. “Stir together two ounces of champagne, half-ounce of lemon juice, one ounce Raffles 1915 Gin, and two dashes of simple syrup. (It’s) absolutely stunning — look out for the gentle spice notes accentuated by the citrus and sparkle.”
He added that a classic turkey Christmas dinner deserves an autumnal gin and tonic, preferably in a high ball glass topped up with Fever Tree Tonic, “complete with a 15ml measure of Sloe Gin poured slowly, so the cascade fall effect is visible”, and garnished with a cloved wheel of orange. “The gin’s complex and spiced flavours give added depth to the mild meat of the turkey.”
To go with the Christmas pudding, Galsworthy reckoned one should try a creamy cocktail of gin and vanilla ice cream, shaken not stirred, finished with a fresh grating of nutmeg. “Its deep, spiced flavours of clove, cardamom, nutmeg and mace go well with rich Christmas puddings and pound cakes.”
SINGLED OUT
In light of the growing affinity for Scotch whisky here, it only makes sense to consider uncorking a prized single malt. Daryl Haldane, head of education at The Macallan, shared a few insights and suggestions for pairing single malt whiskies with ubiquitous Christmas treats.
“Be creative and enjoy the process of preparing and tasting,” said Haldane, who recommends two cocktails: The New York New York, made with The Macallan 12yo, lemon juice and bitters, shaken and strained over ice and topped with a little cherry brandy; and the Gold Fashioned, which features The Macallan 12yo Sherry Oak (or fine oak) with a little sugar syrup, stirred over ice and garnished with a slice of orange.
“I would always recommend (Scotch) whisky with food — especially spicy food,” he continued, adding that classic roasts such as dark meats — beef and duck — always go well with a single malt matured in Spanish oak, such as The Macallan Rare Cask or the 12- and 18-year-old sherry oak expressions. The last also pairs especially well with dark chocolate and coffee.
“(Scotch whisky is) a great alternative to wines and a special bottle can be a great thing to take to a party or a dinner,” he said. “It’s a great discussion point and something that you can go back to time and time again. When it comes to pairing, I really recommend chocolates with single malts. Having chocolates with different (levels of) cocoa content and two or three single malts can be a great way to enjoy an excellent pairing.”
RUM AND THEN SOME
If you prefer rum, it is best enjoyed in either an aperitif or a digestif to round off the meal, said master blender Richard Seale, who recently collaborated with Capella Singapore hotel on its own brand of rum, the Navegante (S$300 a bottle). Marrying tradition and heritage with modern innovation, Navegante is categorised as a single blended rum or a “single distillate” rum.
Like Scotch whisky, the rum’s unique flavour comes from its time spent maturing in casks. In this case, it was a double maturation process that involved being aged for the first three years in ex-bourbon American Oak and a further five years in ex-Cognac French Oak. However, for a typical Christmas feast, Seale recommended two celebratory rum-based cocktails: The Air Mail (rum with lime juice and honey, topped up with champagne); and the classic Old Cuban, which includes a mix of lime juice, aromatic bitters and mint leaves, sweetened with a little sugar syrup and topped up with champagne.
Another festive all-rounder is Bar Canary’s sweet idea to blend Captain Morgan spiced rum with apricot brandy, Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters, sweetened with simple sugar syrup.
Some spirits, though, work just as well on their own. “For typical Christmas starters such as oysters, scallops and foie gras, I’d choose a Martell Cognac with a lot of freshness, lemon notes and a frank and fruity attack on the palate,” said Martell’s international heritage brand ambassador Jean-Jacques Regnault.
Cognacs, of course, can be enjoyed as a “simple but so cool” cocktail, mixed with organic ginger ale, a fresh slice of lime, cucumber peel and a little bit of ice. But if you want to pair it with food, Regnault recommended the Martell XO, which he said was best for enhancing the delicate flavours of roasted turkey or ham. That’s because the subtle toasted notes derived from the casks, which go through a gentle toasting stage during the coopering process, is a natural complement to roasted foods.
What about Asian-inflected dishes such as the ever-popular tandoori turkey? “I would suggest the Martell Cordon Bleu. Its smoothness, elegance and the perfect balance of this nectar will sublimate all the spices used for that dish,” he said. “All the spices found in the Asian world are actually meant to be paired with Martell. Most of the time, wines (will) not be powerful enough to match with the spiciness found in a dish like that.”
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