The sun is beating down and I’m perspiring — even though the air-conditioning is on — as my unfaltering warrior of a driver weaves through the mess of traffic, completely unfazed by the numerous obstacles in our path, including a cow in the middle of the road.

I recalled the long list of “don’t dos” this India first-timer was told: “Don’t get worked up and get impatient while caught in their infamous traffic”, “don’t wear too revealing clothes — dressing conservatively respects the culture”, “don’t drink the tap water”, “don’t eat the street food”, “don’t ever find out the true meaning of Delhi Belly” and so on.

But the truth is that for every “don’t do” you’re told, there are 10 more things you will do. And rightfully so.

You soon learn that India’s beauty lies in its unpredictability, and this seductive country will be one of the most colourful, stirring, exhausting, and unforgettable places you’ll ever visit.

The National Capital Territory of India, Delhi, is a tale of two cities: The crumbling old city of Old Delhi, and the orderly and well-planned New Delhi, the capital city and home to the Parliament of India. It evokes both the ancient past while showcasing India’s modernity. And no matter which side of Delhi you see, you will never really see it all.

So keep your ambitions in check and make select choices, such as staying at the newly–refurbished Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi. Its location is incredibly ideal, simply because it’s only a 10-minute ride from the Delhi Indira Gandhi International Airport (which is great for when you’re running late). And because it is situated on the Delhi-Gurgaon Expressway, it’s extremely easy to get to the city centre or to the various sights.

The staff at the hotel are very accommodating and eager to help with your multitude of questions. The concierge can arrange a private guide and driver, who not only know the city inside and out, but can also take great photographs of you jumping in front of monuments. (Sure, it’s more expensive, but every time you see a tour group getting herded on and off their bus, you’ll know it was money well spent.)

SO MUCH TO SEE

A must-see is the serene and stately Humayun’s Tomb, the city’s first Mogul building and one of Delhi’s three World Heritage sites. It’s widely known among the guides as one of the forgotten monuments of love, since it was commissioned by the widow of Emperor Humayun (1508–56) in tribute to her husband in 1562, and built by Humayun’s great-grandson, the Emperor Shah Jahan. And yes, there are similarities to the Taj Mahal because, as my very knowledgeable guide told me, the complex’s architecture was the prototype for that more famous monument.

You will want to head over to Jantar Mantar, an outdoor observatory filled with colossal red astronomical instruments masquerading as an artsy sculpture park and the Qutub Minar complex, which was built in the 12th century and considered really old even by Delhi standards. Started by Delhi’s first Islamic ruler, Qutbuddin Aibak, to commemorate his defeat of the Hindu kings, he unfortunately died without seeing the ornate Qutub Minar, a 235-foot, five-tier tower, completed.

Like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Qutub Minar, which has defined Delhi’s skyline for the last 800 years since it was completed, is said to be tilting. But we were assured that the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) have entrusted specialists to look into that. What also impressed us was the mosque built adjacent to the column, with its intricately carved pillars which were repurposed from the Jain and Hindu temples that once stood on the site. It’s now mostly in ruins because, as we learnt from our guide, many Hindu temples were destroyed by the conquering Muslims, and the Hindu carvings violated Islam’s ban on portraying living creatures. But even though the heads and faces have been chipped away, there is still a lot of original work to admire in Qutbuddin’s mosque, with its six ruined archways so finely and elaborately carved from red stone.

TIME AND TIDE

Time has taken an enthralling toll on Old Delhi, the walled city built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century as a future urban paradise. The grand canal that once shimmered has long been covered by concrete to accommodate the city’s cacophonous traffic, lined on either side by everything from centuries-old shops to a beef-free branch of McDonald’s.

The lively labyrinthine alleys of the heaving Chandni Chowk — a once-grand avenue laid out in 1650 by Shah Jahan’s daughter — is now a teeming home to many of the city’s wholesale shops and bazaars selling everything from silver to spices, saris to sweets, and tea to turbans.

Your eyes will dart around, your camera won’t stop clicking and your neck will ache from straining to see everything as your rickshaw driver pedals with surprising agility and speed, passing narrow storefronts and snaking through even narrower streets over which hang snarls of electrical wires. It’s no surprise to find yourself fascinated by this very real slice of sub-continental life.

You will also attempt to climb one of the minarets at the Jama Masjid — India’s largest mosque — for views of the dense, cuboid cityscape and for a good view and sense of the massiveness of the nearby Red Fort. It’s considered Delhi’s showpiece attraction, the former home to India’s Mughal emperors, and provides a fascinating glimpse into the opulent and cultured world of the country’s most charismatic rulers.

After the wonderful avalanche of sights and sounds Delhi has to offer, there’s nothing better than indulging in the creature comforts of your hotel, and you will not deny your body what the Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi R The Spa has to offer. Housed in an expansive, three-level complex that offers a blend of Asian traditions and European therapies, you will be spoilt for choice when deciding between suites with aqua beds that offer a floating experience, Vichy showers or hamam tables.

And then, it’s an authentic lip-smacking kebab dinner at the iconic The Great Kabab Factory, located right at your doorstep. And as you drink your lassi, dip in your chutney and savour the wide variety of meats on skewers, you have just enough time to assess your time in Delhi. You realise that, once you get past those “don’t dos”, you understand the mystique that has lured travellers to this magnificent land for ages.

And yes, you will enjoy every moment of it.

This trip was made possible by the Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group.