Barely a week had passed since we returned from our second trip to Iceland, and already my partner and myself found ourselves talking about returning for a third visit in the near future.

Iceland does not have a bustling city, nor is it a shopping capital. It is pretty pricey as well and to say the weather is unpredictable is an understatement. In spite of that, this Nordic island nation close to the Arctic is one of the fastest growing tourist destinations. Figures from the Icelandic Tourist Board showed international visitors jumped from 488,000 in 2010 to nearly 1.3 million last year. So what is Iceland’s appeal?

If volcanoes, lava fields, hot springs and all things geothermal get you excited, Iceland is your playground. Even if they don’t, you cannot help being seduced by its unusual natural wonders, climate and way of life that was, and still is, being shaped by volatile geological forces beneath it.

It is as if nature chose Iceland to be its shop window to not only reveal to, and remind humanity that nature is still the unstoppable force, but to also be a real-life example of how geothermal energy can be harnessed to supply a country’s energy needs in a clean and sustainable way. It currently supplies 25 per cent of Iceland’s total electricity.

The Walter Mitty effect

Yes, I admit I’m one of those who “fell” for Iceland because of Ben Stiller’s 2013 hit The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, which was partly filmed there. Our first visit was a four-day trip in 2014 when we got to see Iceland’s biggest hits: Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss waterfall, and the Geysir and Strokkur geysers. We also went on the South Coast tour along the Ring Road to the ethereal-looking Jokulsarlon glacial lake and caught the fascinating sight of seals swimming in between large chunks of ice floating out to sea.

But those were just teasers that made us hungry for more of the country. A big part of its appeal is its ability to make you feel as if you have left the frenetic, 24/7 big city-vibe for some proper peace and quiet.

At 103,000 sq km, Iceland is not the biggest place on earth, but with a population of only about 330,000 — most are in and around the capital Reykjavik — it means much of the rest of the land is largely uninhabited because of its hostile mountainous terrain and geologically volatile interior. I can actually get really up close to these natural wonders, and many of them are free-of-charge. It is a land of extremes, but “packaged” in accessible and manageable proportions.

While climbing Mount Everest, for instance, requires lots of money and years of preparation with no guarantee of success, in Iceland, weather-permitting, you can trek or fly by helicopter to the glacial summits of volcanoes like Eyjafjallajokull.

So in August this year, I returned with my partner for a week, and planned to spend five days on a road trip along Iceland’s 1,332km-long Ring Road, stopping overnight at guesthouses in Hofn, Akureyri and Isafjordur before returning to Reykjavik.

When we rented a car and told the staffer there that we planned to circumnavigate Iceland in just five days instead of the recommended two weeks — work commitments meant that was not possible — his response was a bemused: “Are you sure?”

We knew Iceland’s rugged beauty and geological wonders would make staying on schedule difficult, but hey, we have got to try, right? In the end, Iceland’s stunning beauty forced us to slow down — in a good way. We had planned to reach Hofn, some 450km away on the south coast, by late afternoon, but only arrived close to 10pm having spent far longer than expected at the many attractions along the way. These include the Skogafoss waterfall — a rainbow formed on its mist — the Skoga river upstream that fed it, the mesmerising lava fields, an unscheduled detour to Dyrholaey’s black sand beaches and puffin colonies nesting on its freezing, wind-swept cliffs, and a return visit to Jokulsarlon.

And even though we were on a tight schedule, we experienced moments, where time stood still. In particular, at the Skaftafell National Park, with its glacial rivers snaking down from Hvannadalshnukur, Iceland’s highest peak. We pulled up by the side of the road to take a moment to admire this haunting backdrop in perfect silence — if the proverbial pin dropped, you could probably have heard it — and with little to distract you, the calm was almost zen-like. The calm, the wilderness, are perhaps some of Iceland’s most understated qualities.

While the drive from Reykjavik to Hofn was a smooth warm-up, the 450km journey from Hofn to Akureyri via Egilsstadir, was quite different, one that felt like an eternity.

Just before the village of Breiadalsvik, the Ring Road turns into the highlands. This section is paved with gravel, which meant a slow and bumpy three-hour ride up and down the otherwise spectacular East Fjords to the soundtrack of gravel kicking up against the car’s undercarriage. I was glad I took the car rental company’s advice to buy insurance against gravel damage.

Despite reaching Egilsstadir behind schedule (again), we booked a detour to the sleepy village of Seydisfjordur about 27km deep into the East Fjords as sort of a “homage” to the reason that first piqued my interest in Iceland. Several scenes from The Secret Life of Walter Mitty were filmed here, including that memorable shot where Stiller longboarded down a winding mountain road called Route 93, past the picturesque Gufufoss waterfall and into Seydisfjordur.

Outer worldly magic

We reluctantly left the lush, misty East Fjords in the rear view mirror for the parched, moon-like expanse of the north-east and the Myvatn region, one of Iceland’s most geologically active and intriguing.

You can feel the heat and smell the boiling sulphur mud pools and steaming fumaroles of Namafjall, stand nervously on the slippery edge of a 100m drop into the abyss of Dettifoss — Europe’s mightiest waterfall — and be drowned out by its deafening roar, or drive up to the crater of Krafla — one of two “vitis” or gateways to hell in Icelandic mythology, the other being Askja — and walk along its rim and see the crystal clear emerald green lake. Here, nature is in charge. Coming from an urban jungle such as Singapore, Iceland’s environment can be unnervingly alien, yet strangely mesmerising.

Just a 90 minute drive away, Akureyri is a good base from where to explore the Myvatn region. Be sure to fuel up at the Berlin cafe along Skipagata in Akureyri’s town square, which serves a decent breakfast menu.

Akureyri and nearby Husavik are best known for their whale watching tours. Our guide from Akureyri’s Ambassador Whale Watching tours said whales usually hunt alone, so to see five humpback whales feeding in the depths of Eyjafjordur was truly a sight to behold.

The penultimate leg of our road trip was a 560km drive to the scenic West Fjords in the remote north-west and its biggest town of Isafjordur, where the Gamla Bakariid, a quaint, old school style cafe was a highlight. It served strong, aromatic black coffee and a selection of pastries simply irresistible for someone with a sweet tooth like myself.

After five days on the road, we spent the last day of our stay in Iceland in Reykjavik, which is best explored by foot. We spent the evening at the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, which is near Keflavik Airport and about a 40 minute drive from Reykjavik. We were hoping for a summer cameo from the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights, but it did not happen (Reykjavik should have turned off all its lights that night as well!). But in a sign of Iceland’s tourism boom, the sky was dotted with seemingly endless planes flying in and out of Keflavik Airport nearby.

Yet, even as visitor arrivals continue to rise, demanding more accommodation and other amenities, Icelanders remain attached to their culture and way of life. A construction project cannot proceed if it means displacing the homes of the mythical elves, or huldufolk — Icelandic for “hidden people”. Off-road driving is banned, and walking on fragile rock formations or lava fields, and the moss that grows on it, is frowned upon as it can cause irreversible damage.

As visitors, we have a responsibility to be considerate and respectful of Iceland’s environment and its cultural sensitivities if future generations are to also experience this remarkable land.

As we flew back to London, we knew that this more extensive trip has still not done Iceland justice. There is something magnetic about nature’s beautiful merger of force and fragility that draws new visitors and compels frequent ones like us to return. Now, if you’ll excuse me, it’s back to planning for our trip to the Land of Fire and Ice next year.

ROAD-TRIPPING TIPS ICELAND

GET A PORTABLE CAR CHARGER AND POCKET WIFI

These two devices will eliminate the need to look for a power source for your electronic devices, and Wi-Fi connection, the two problems travellers often face.

Get YOUR INTERNATIONAL DRIVER’S PERMIT/LICENCE

It’s not compulsory, but it could help as an additional form of identification in the event of an unfortunate incident. It can be processed on-the-spot at the Automobile Association of Singapore.

FUEL UP

Fuel up whenever you can because you would be surprised how quickly your tank empties as you admire the landscape. A litre of petrol is about 200 ISK, or roughly S$2.40.

STAY WITHIN the SPEED LIMIT

Speeding fines range from a few hundred euros to a small fortune. The limit is around 50 to 60 kmh in built-up areas, and up to 90 kmh on the Ring Road. But never exceed the assigned limit in tunnels because speed cameras are all around.

BOOK ACCOMMODATION EARLY

Accommodation is expensive, more so during the peak summer months with an average of S$200 a night for a basic room and private bathroom. Booking well in advance can save costs and increase your chances of finding your preferred accommodation.