Explore the colonial charm of Southeast Asian cities with a new book
SINGAPORE — We all love long weekends for short getaways, but how many of us actually do something productive during such holidays like, you know, write a book? Well, Kennie Ting did. The sociologist and director of Policy and Development at National Heritage Board turned his long weekend trips to nearby cities into literary fodder for a travel coffee-table book aptly titled The Romance Of The Grand Tour: 100 Years Of Travel In South East Asia.
SINGAPORE — We all love long weekends for short getaways, but how many of us actually do something productive during such holidays like, you know, write a book? Well, Kennie Ting did. The sociologist and director of Policy and Development at National Heritage Board turned his long weekend trips to nearby cities into literary fodder for a travel coffee-table book aptly titled The Romance Of The Grand Tour: 100 Years Of Travel In South East Asia.
“These were grand cities during colonial times and I wanted to experience what it must be like then,” the boyish 37-year-old said.
He spent a whole year of long weekends in 2012 flying to cities such as Jakarta, Phnom Penh, Manila and Hong Kong (the colonial port cities in this region stretch from Rangoon, or present day Yangon, to Hong Kong, hence the latter’s inclusion in his book). “And Hong Kong is really only one degree north of Hanoi,” Ting added.
He also hopes to embark on sequels of sorts to cover cities in North-east Asia such as Yokohama and Qingdao, and those in former British India. “Then my journey would be complete.”
Q: What made you decide to write a book like this?
A: I didn’t expect my trips to become a book. When I returned to Singapore in 2010 after spending three years in London and New York doing my post-graduate degree, I promised myself I would learn more about this region, about Singapore’s place in South-east Asia as a sort of journey of self-discovery. I’m fascinated by the colonial period — how that particular time in history links all these different cities. I stayed in colonial-type hotels, walked streets after streets and took lots of photos of the cities and grand colonial buildings. After I finished my trips, someone suggested doing a book. I submitted proposals to some publishers and I’m very happy Talisman agreed to take me on in August 2013. After we signed the contract, I did more research, bought materials and postcards from eBay — which, by the way, has a huge community of collectors — and worked to get this out.
Q: So, what have you discovered about Singapore, South-east Asia and yourself after your trips and research?
A: I think for many of us in Singapore, we sometimes forget we’re in South-east Asia. Nationalism has drawn lines where it once used to be a more organic region where Singapore was part of a wider trading network. We’re all intricately linked and I realised many of these cities are just as multicultural as Singapore. For example, in the old town of Yangon, there are Christian churches, Hindu temples, synagogues and mosques. You can find variations of roti prata there and chicken rice. In Ho Chi Minh City, you can also find Hindu temples and mosques. Some of the star artefacts from our newly opened Hindu Heritage Centre are on loan from a Hindu temple in Ho Chi Minh City. As for myself, I learnt to see the small details in everyday life.
Q: You stayed in grand colonial hotels as part of your trip. Which would you say came closest to how it was like in the colonial era to you?
A: Hotel Majapahit in Surabaya. It’s very off the beaten track as people seldom go to Surabaya for its heritage. The hotel felt most like how it would feel in the 1920s because many of the other hotels have been renovated and feel more contemporary. Here, the original structure of the rooms still stand, there are outdoor patios, stained glass windows and public fountains. I felt like the only one in the entire place, which can be creepy at night! I also like The Metropole in Hanoi. It has a true feel of French Indochina with touches such as the Bamboo Bar playing French music, and you can take tours in vintage Citroen cars.
Q: Which was your favourite city among the 12 you visited?
A: I’d say Phnom Penh. It’s very much overlooked because many travellers just head for Siem Reap to see the Angkor Wat, but Phnom Penh itself has much to offer culturally. The colonial atmosphere is still there and the buildings have been well-restored. My favourite restaurant there is Van’s, right by the Post Office Building, which serves delicious French food. You can explore much of Phnom Penh in one day!
The Romance Of The Grand Tour retails for S$42 at all major bookstores.